Coast to Coast - Stage 1: St Bees to Grasmere

(Written by Gordon, posted by Ab)

My image of England has received a massive correction! Forty years ago, working in London, my image was of constrained people living tidy lives in stucco semi-detached villas in grey cities. My experience of empire in post raj India was of a theatre of government based on a schooling system that equipped young men to manage the empire through self denial and a sense of responsibility, but limited practical education. The practical stuff was left to sons of the Scottish enlightenment who provided the professional class. A middle class empire in its dying days.

These three days have been a delight. It has been a pleasure to meet and talk with so many walkers and locals who service the walkers – B&B ladies, pub staff, shop assistants, waitresses and others. The walkers, including women walking alone or in pairs, have a sense of purpose and confidence. Some are families with children of all ages and/or their dogs. Hosting a great Olympics, holding the Ashes and beating the Wallabies have all helped, I’m sure.

Ennerdale water, with Kerry

The route starts at St Bees, an Edwardian seaside resort, now a dormitory village for Sellafield nuclear power station and host to a very old private school. The first part of the walk is along the cliff tops above the Irish Sea, in an extended semi circle, before the track heads inland along the stem of the question mark shape of the walk. Through small villages and boggy bottoms and over a small hill to enter the Lake District through a narrow gorge – Nannycatch Gate. Overnight (with the best potato chips ever) at Ennerdale Bridge. An early start on Day 2 for a long haul up Ennerdale Water to the head of the glaciated valley; a stiff climb up to the ridge and some freezing rain across the tops before dropping down past a slate mine into Borrowdale, a remote valley. Day 3 began with a steady climb up the head of the u-shaped valley, muddy and stony, across the boggy tops to take the high road past the Calf Crag , Gibson’s knott and the Helmcrag to drop steeply down to Grasmere twinkling among the trees. Day 1 & 2 were about 14½ miles (23km) and 10 miles on day 3. Days 2 & 3 were up and over about 600 metres.

Calf crag to Grasmere

Gordon’s lightweight boots didn’t cope with the rocks, so one of today’s (rest day) activities was to find a better pair – with success. So this afternoon we walked the coffin route from Grasmere (where the church is) to Rydal (where there wasn’t one) and then on to Ambleside to gawk at the crowds and find an ATM. We’re both pleased with how we have stood up to the first three days, classed as strenuous, and delighted to have had a rest day. Weather has been good for walking, with rain today- so can’t complain. Am beginning to appreciate Wainwright’s  genius – he designed the walk.